Hakone Ryokan: Onsen Areas, Access and Tips

Getting there

The Odakyu Romancecar limited express runs from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in about 80 minutes (all seats reserved; a limited express ticket is needed in addition to the fare). From Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto, the Hakone Tozan Railway climbs into the mountains, and a cable car and ropeway continue beyond.

Good for

• Travellers in Tokyo who want one or two onsen nights without a flight
• First-timers who want the easy access of Yumoto, the largest spring town at the entrance
• Visitors planning a loop with Owakudani, Lake Ashi and museums
• Day-trippers: many ryokan accept day bathers, typically ¥500-2,000

Watch out for

• Areas are far apart on mountain roads. Choose the area first, then the inn.
• Hakone sits in an active volcanic area; in 2015 volcanic activity led to restrictions and cancellations. Check current alerts before travel.
• Overnight ryokan stays with meals start at around ¥15,000 per person, and rooms with private baths cost more.

Booking tips

• The Hakone Freepass covers many transport lines in the area; the Romancecar surcharge is paid separately.
• If you arrive late or carry large luggage, an inn near Hakone-Yumoto Station is easier.
• Check whether the plan includes dinner and breakfast. Since around 2017 more ryokan sell room-only plans, and dinner usually starts at a set time, so arrive on time.
• Many onsen baths do not admit guests with tattoos. If this applies to you, look for a room with its own bath or a bookable private bath (kashikiri) and confirm the policy before booking.